How I Became an Organic Winemaker

Serendipity

Back in 2006, my partners and I were living like caffeinated hamsters on the wheel of capitalism. We ran a small M&A advisory firm in Belgrade—though “small” is misleading. We were working 16-hour days, juggling more deals than we had hands, and seriously considering hiring more staff just so someone could remind us to breathe. From the looks of it, we were destined to drown in money and stress forever.

The trouble was: I was drowning faster than most. Overweight, blood pressure high enough to power a fountain, and one late-night burek away from a stroke, I decided to save myself. My grand plan? Buy a peaceful plot of land outside Belgrade, build a tiny weekend house, and spend Saturdays pretending to be a gardener while ignoring my phone.

In early 2008, a real estate agent dragged me to a place she called *Plavinci* in the Grocka municipality. “Awesome views! Quiet as a monastery!” she promised. But my eyebrow shot up. “Plavinci” literally means “the place that gets flooded.” And it was next to the Danube—the kind of river that eats houses for breakfast.

As it turned out, the land sat a comfortable 100 meters above the water. The only thing that could flood it was Noah’s Ark. Perfect. The mystery of the ominous name, I decided, was a problem for Future Me.

Two years later, the house was finished. But then came the awkward question: what to do with the third of a hectare sloping toward the Danube? Too big for a lawn, too small for a golf course. My plan was simple: hire someone to farm it, learn casually over the weekends, and by the time I retired, swan in like a genius and take over.

But fate—or as I like to call it, “some guy with strong opinions”—had other plans. One day, a famous winemaker visited. He stood on my terrace, gazed at the view, and proclaimed like Moses with a corkscrew:

“God wants this to be a vineyard!”

To which I replied, with all the dignity of a man in slippers:

“Tell God He can have a vineyard if He’s willing to do the weeding.”

See, in Serbia we have two sayings about vineyards: *Those who want to work hard, plant a vineyard.* And *A vineyard needs a slave, not a master.* (They rhyme in Serbian, which makes the message feel slightly less terrifying.)

But my guest was relentless. “Come on—southeastern exposure, perfect slope, rich soil, shielded from storms, Danube as a thermal regulator. It’s practically a vineyard brochure!”

“Listen,” I said. “I came here to relax. To drink wine, not to make it. You know better than anyone how much work vines are.”

“Go organic!” he said. “No tilling. Just mow the grass. Plant resistant varieties—no spraying. Winter pruning, spring tucking, summer harvest. Easy! And I’ll teach you how to make great wine.”

I once read: *I can resist anything except temptation.* Unfortunately, that applies to me perfectly.

By 2010, the global financial crisis had kindly answered the question of whether I’d keep running my advisory firm. (Spoiler: no.) Suddenly, the vineyard idea didn’t look like lunacy—it looked like Plan B.

And that, dear reader, is how a stressed-out M&A advisor turned into an organic winemaker. Fifteen years later, I’m 25 kilos lighter, blood pressure perfect, cholesterol tamed, and I can hike a hill without needing an ambulance at the top. All this without giving up food or drink. Serendipity, indeed.

Are You Out of Your F...ing Mind?

A week later, I found myself at the hallowed halls of “The Institute” in Sremski Karlovci—basically Hogwarts for grapes. For decades, they’ve been cross-breeding vines, making tiny experimental wines, and casually reinventing viticulture while the rest of us are just trying not to kill our houseplants.

I was ushered into a tasting room and handed samples from resistant varieties. After about a dozen, I fell in love with Panonia—a love child of Riesling and Bianca. Think Riesling that went to a spa retreat with Traminer: crisp, refreshing, maybe a bit smug.

“Do you have grafts for sale?” I asked, naively.
“Yes,” replied the staff. “How many do you need?”
Cue my blank stare. “Uh… no idea.”
“How big is your plot?”
“About 80 by 20 meters.”
“Tractor or hand tools?”
“Oh, hand. Definitely hand.” (Because apparently, I was still pretending this was a *hobby*.)

The expert did some quick math. “That’s about 900 plants.”
“Pack it.”

And just like that, my future was sealed with a receipt.

On the drive back, I frantically phoned around for someone who actually knew how to plant a vineyard. To my surprise, it was easy to find a crew. Two days later, 900 baby vines stood in my field like rows of green soldiers waiting for orders.

At first, everything was idyllic. The plants grew, I mowed the grass between them, and I felt like the gentleman farmer I always imagined. But then… weeds. Sneaky, malicious weeds that sprouted dangerously close to the vines where no lawn mower dared go.

My only option? Hand-weeding. Which, in practice, meant squatting 900 times in a row.

Imagine your gym trainer announcing: “Today, we’re doing 900 squats.” Except this wasn’t a gym, there was no water cooler, and I was still overweight, stiff, and breathless. I managed 96 squats before collapsing in a sweaty heap.

The next morning, I crawled—literally crawled—to the bathroom. It took half an hour under a scalding shower and a pharmaceutical cocktail to stand upright. A sane man would have quit right there.

But sanity was never my strong suit. For some insane reason, I persisted. Two weeks of agony later, I had weeded all 900 vines—just in time to start over again. By autumn, I had performed more squats than a professional weightlifter in training.

When my winemaker friend returned that fall, I proudly led him to the terrace and waved at my vineyard like a conquering general.
“Behold!” I said. “My masterpiece!”

He went pale.
“My God. What have you done? Are you out of your freeking mind?”

“Wha—what do you mean?” I stammered. “I planted a vineyard. Exactly as you told me to!”

“I meant twenty plants. Like all the other weekenders! You’ve planted enough for two thousand kilos of grapes—a thousand bottles of wine! And you have no cellar, no equipment. This is madness. Pull them out. Leave one row.”

I stared at him, horrified. “Pull them out?! Are *you* out of your mind? Do you know how many squats I’ve done this year? Five thousand! I have legs of steel! I’m not pulling out a single vine!”

He looked me over and smiled.
“You do look fitter. Healthier.”

“You bet I do,” I said, flexing my thighs like a man possessed. “And I’m only getting started. I’ll buy more land, plant black grapes, build a cellar, buy equipment. I’m going to be a winemaker!”

And that was the moment I officially tipped from *gentleman gardener* into *full-blown viticultural lunatic.*

What’s in a Name?

Now, about this name “Plavinci.” At first glance, it sounds like a threat. In Serbian, “plaviti” means “to flood,” so Plavinci could be translated as “That Place the Danube Will Definitely Destroy.” Not exactly the branding you want when you’re trying to sell wine.

But language, like wine, gets tricky when you let it breathe. *Plavo* also means “blue.” And *plaviti”—with a different accent—means “to make something blue.” Confused? Welcome to Serbian. So, Plavinci could also mean “The Blue Place.” Which, admittedly, sounds much more Instagram-friendly.

The real story is better. Long ago, these slopes were covered in vineyards, and farmers sprayed them with copper sulfate—known locally as “blue stone.” In the morning sun, from the river below, the whole hillside shimmered indigo. Sailors, enchanted, started jotting in their logbooks: “Passed by Plavinci at dawn. Looks like someone painted the hill.” Romantic, isn’t it? In English, we could almost get away with calling it *Indigo Hills.*

Names matter. They’re little stories in disguise. Take our red wine Indigo. Simple enough—its deep color, especially when you’re scrubbing glasses, looks like the ink scribes once used with feather pens. But it’s also a quiet nod to the place itself.

Then there’s Ćilibar (say it with me: Chille-bar), which means “amber.” Logically, you’d expect an orange wine. But logic and winemaking don’t always share a vineyard. My very first mini-harvest—about 80 kilos of Panonia grapes—was done barefoot, old-school style. Whole clusters, week-long maceration, juice strained into a carboy. The result? A cloudy, orange-tinted, funky nectar that tasted like nothing anyone around here had ever encountered.

When I proudly offered it to people, most wouldn’t even sip it. “It’s spoiled!” they cried. (Meanwhile, natural-wine hipsters would’ve sold a kidney to get their hands on it.)

The next year, when we finally had a proper harvest, I chickened out and made it as a classic white. But the name Ćilibar stuck. Today, we give it a modest three-day maceration. It flirts with being orange, but not enough to scare off the cautious. Still, one day I hope to return to that rebellious first bottle—the one that popped corks and freaked everyone out.

Our orange Selena (six days on the skins) takes its name from the Greek goddess of the Moon. The grapes come from a friend’s biodynamic vineyard, where everything follows the lunar calendar. We wanted a name that hinted at that celestial rhythm without sticking “biodynamic” on the label and scaring people into Googling Rudolf Steiner.

Then there’s our rosé Ramonda. On the label, you’ll see the flower Ramonda nathalie, discovered in 1864 on Dry Mountain by the Serbian king’s physician. Naturally, he named it after Queen Natalia—though rumor has it the queen couldn’t stand him, mostly because he was King Milan’s wingman in his favorite hobby: chasing other women. (Royal scandals and botany, all in one.)

The Ramonda is also called the Phoenix Flower. It can look dead for months, then miraculously revive with a splash of water. We like to think of our rosé the same way: one glass on a blazing summer day, and suddenly you’re alive again.

Our pét-nat Endora has a name as magical as the bubbles inside. In ancient Greek, Endora means “enchantress.” In Hebrew, it means “fountain.” So naturally, our label shows two enchantresses dancing around a fountain of wine. Because once you taste it, you’ll be enchanted too—and possibly dancing yourself.

And finally, our pét-nat Good Boy Bruno. I won’t spoil the mystery. Let’s just say it’s a cheeky wordplay between French and English. You’ll figure it out. Or drink enough of it to stop caring.

So there you have it

And that’s how I went from stressed-out M&A advisor to organic winemaker with steel thighs and a cellar full of bottles. It wasn’t a business plan—it was a series of accidents, bad decisions that turned out good, and stubbornness disguised as vision.

Looking back, I can honestly say I was lucky to lose my first career. The vineyard gave me back my health, my sanity, and, an excuse to open wine before noon “for research purposes.”

Today, people ask me if I knew what I was doing when I planted 900 vines with no cellar, no equipment, and no clue. Of course not. But sometimes the best things grow out of a little madness. And sometimes God really does want you to plant a vineyard—He just forgets to mention the squats.